Overview of surfing in Hawaii
The main source of swell here is from the intense lows that circle the earth south of Australia, these lows spin off northwards with blessed regularity, peppering the entire region with generous SE to SW groundswell from March to September. Australia and New Zealand see the bulk of these swells. These countries cast a very tall shadow across the rest of the Pacific and hence many other islands in their wake can suffer from swell difusion. December to February is cyclone season. Unpredictable cells can deliver swell in a 360 radius, lighting up rarely breaking reefs and points facing every conceivable direction.
Where to stay
You can find any type of accommodation you can think of in Hawaii from the luxurious high rise hotels that line the beachfront in Waikiki to camping out in remote state parks, it’s all here and you can spend as little or as much as you want – within reason of course. Pre-booking is advised where possible to avoid disappointment around major holiday periods such as Christmas and New Year.
5 Best Surf Resorts and Camps in Hawaii
The 33 best Surf spots in Hawaii
Surf seasons and when to go
The main source of swell here is from the intense lows that circle the earth south of Australia, these lows spin off northwards with blessed regularity, peppering the entire region with generous SE to SW groundswell from March to September. Australia and New Zealand see the bulk of these swells. These countries cast a very tall shadow across the rest of the Pacific and hence many other islands in their wake can suffer from swell difusion. December to February is cyclone season. Unpredictable cells can deliver swell in a 360 radius, lighting up rarely breaking reefs and points facing every conceivable direction.
The South Pacific trade winds are some of the most consistent in the world, generally from the East with slight seasonal variation. This is the largest Ocean on the planet and these winds easily generate regular rideable swell. Onshore conditions can be a problem on east facing coastlines but peeling yourself out for an early surf will usually bring some relief.
In the North Pacific it is the intense lows descending from the Aleutians that deliver NE to NW swells from October to March. Hawaii is ideally placed to make best use of this energy but other coastlines in the region have their own less publicised and far less crowded gems.
Jun to October also sees rarer hurricane swell radiate out from southern Mexico. This energy is often felt right throughout Polynesia. With so many energy vectors at work it is very hard not to find a wave in Hawaii, just make sure you find something customised for your own skill, experience and level of surf fitness.
Thought to be the birthplace of surfing and a mecca for all surfers who should, at least once in a lifetime, visit here to see what it’s all about.
Summer (May-September)
The Summer season of only five months is the warmer season with trade winds dominating. Average wind speeds are the highest during this period when speeds are 10-20 knots north-easters. Precipitation is rare, occurring mainly at night along the windward coasts and higher elevations, and so this is the drier season in terms of average monthly rainfall, except on the Kona Coast (leeward coast) of the Island of Hawaii. Monthly mean air temperature ranges between 25°C to 27°C.
Winter (October-April)
Winter is also characterised by north-east to east trade winds but to a much lesser extent than summer. These winds are cross to offshore on the North Shore of Oahu and help to turn on epic conditions. Major storm systems associated with fronts occur during this time of year bringing heavy rain and strong winds but are not as intense as those of the mid-latitudes. Air temperatures are slightly cooler at 24°C to 26°C, and the trade winds are often interrupted by other winds that see an increase in cloudiness and shower activity. Also at this time of year, a south-westerly wind called the Kona Wind can form and bring more widespread and prolonged precipitation than in a cold-front storm. However winds from this direction also make other surf spots, normally onshore, an option.
Hawaii surf travel guide
The Island of Hawaiʻi (called the Big Island or Hawaiʻi Island) is the largest Hawaiian Island. It’s total area is 10,432.5 km². The Island of Hawaiʻi is administered as the County of Hawaiʻi. It is estimated that in the year 2008, the island had a resident population of 201,109.
The Big Island is famous for its volcanoes. Kīlauea, the most active, has been erupting almost continuously for more than two decades. When the molten lava makes contact with the ocean, the sea water turns into steam, and the sudden cooling of the lava causes the newly formed lava rocks to explode and crack into small pieces.
