ʻO nā wahi ma Hossegor, Seignosse a me Capbreton e hana i kēlā me kēia makahiki. ʻO ka wā o ke kai a me ka ʻōhū e hoʻopilikia nui i ka maikaʻi o ka nalu, a ke loli mau nei nā kapa one, no laila mai kānalua e nīnau i nā kamaʻāina e pili ana i ke ʻano heʻenalu o kēia manawa.
ʻO ke kauwela ka manawa maikaʻi loa e leʻaleʻa i nā wahi o ka ʻāina ʻo Hossegor. Ua hoʻi nā keiki i ke kula, ua hoʻi ka poʻe mākua i ka hana, ua mahana mau ka wai a nui aʻe ka nalu. Hoʻomaka ʻia nā ʻōnaehana haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa ma ka ʻAkelanika ʻĀkau a hoʻouna i nā laina o ka pehu e hele pololei ana i nā kahakai kahakai o Farani.
Maikaʻi nō hoʻi ka hoʻoilo, ʻoiai ua mākaukau ʻoe e hoʻokūkū ʻia e nā mahana hau.
I ke kauwela, ʻaʻole kūlike a liʻiliʻi ka nalu. Hiki paha iā ʻoe ke ʻalo i kekahi mau ʻano palahalaha inā ʻaʻole ʻoe i laki… He pilikia ke lawe -a ʻaʻole paha- inā makemake ʻoe e heʻenalu i nā pōkole papa (a i ʻole bikini). Akā, pono ʻoe e launa pū me ka lehulehu, ʻaʻole ia he manaʻo ʻaʻole hiki iā ʻoe ke leʻaleʻa i kekahi mau kau epic, ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi inā mākaukau ʻoe e hele a mākaʻikaʻi.
